FAN TAN. This is the simplest form of Stops, and requires no layout. Any number of players can take part, and a full pack of fifty-two cards is used. The players cut for deal and seats, low having the choice. Ace is low. The players are provided with an equal number of counters, and before the cards are dealt, each places an agreed number in the pool. All the cards are dealt out. If some have more than others it does not matter. The eldest hand begins by playing any card he pleases, and the next player on his left must either play the card next above it, or put one counter in the pool. Only one card is played at a time, and after the sequence has arrived at the King it must be continued with the ace, and go on until the suit is exhausted.
If the ball is struck off the centre, as in the second figure, it will travel only a short distance, as a result of the cue’s being forced past it toward the cloth, and will then return with a very strong retrograde motion after touching the object ball. If the cue strikes too near the top, the pinch will be too strong for the cue ball to reach the object ball, and if the cue is not held perpendicularly, the ball will not return. If the cue points toward the centre of the ball, as in the third figure, the ball will be driven forward, without any tendency to return after striking the object ball. The latter shot is useful in making a “close follow,” to avoid making a foul. _=The Force Shot.=_ The beginner at billiards should strike his ball always exactly in the centre, until he learns the angles. With moderate strength the effect of the stroke is to cause the ball to roll naturally along the cloth until it reaches the object ball, after which it will be deflected from its original course according to the angle at which the object ball is struck. If the cue ball is struck very hard, however, and very slightly below the centre, it will slide for a certain distance before beginning to roll, and if it reaches the object ball before this sliding motion ceases it will simply come to a stop, or go off at a right angle if the object ball is not struck exactly in the centre. This method of forcing a ball to go off at a right angle is called “screwing” in England. [Illustration] _=The Follow Shot.
Nip-srat-and-bite A children s game, in which nuts, pence, gingerbread, &c, are squandered.--Addy s _Sheffield Glossary_. Nitch, Notch, No-Notch Children cut a number of slices from an apple, extending from the eye to the tail, broader on the outside than on the inner, which reaches nearly to the core; one piece has a part cut out, making a notch--this is called Notch; another is not cut at all--this is called No-Notch; while a third has an incision made on it, but not cut out--this is called Nitch. The pieces when thus marked are replaced, and the game consists in one child holding the apple, and pointing to one of the pieces, asking another child which he will have, Nitch, Notch, or No-Notch; if he guesses right, he has it and eats it; if wrong, the other eats it.--Sussex (Holloway s _Dict. of Provincialisms_). Not A game where the parties, ranged on opposite sides, with each a bat in their hands, endeavour to strike a ball to opposite goals. The game is called Not, from the ball being made of a knotty piece of wood.--Gloucestershire (Holloway s _Dict. of Provincialisms_).
Some players imagine this can be done by putting side on the cue ball, but such is not the case. It is accomplished by striking so hard that the ball buries itself in the cushion, the result of which is that the angle of reflection is less than that of incidence. It is possible to drive an object ball to the rail at an angle of 60 degrees with such force that after crossing the table twice it will come off at a perfect right angle from the cushion. This is a very useful shot in banking for the side pockets, and also in playing for the 1 or 4 pin at Pin Pool. The following _=LAWS=_ for Fifteen-Ball Pool are copied, by permission, from the 1908 edition of the rules published by the Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co. _=1.=_ The game of Fifteen-Ball Pool is played with fifteen balls numbered from one to fifteen, respectively, and one white ball not numbered. The latter is the cue-ball, and at the opening of the game, the player plays with it from within the string at the head of the table, at any of the numbered balls, and afterward as he finds it on the table, his object being to pocket as many of the numbered balls as he can, the number on each ball he pockets being scored to his credit; so that not he who pockets the largest number of balls, but he whose score, when added up, yields the largest total, wins the game. Before commencing the game these fifteen balls are placed in the form of a triangle upon the table--a triangular frame being employed for this purpose to insure correctness. The ball numbered fifteen is so placed upon the table as to form the apex of the triangle, pointing upward toward the head of the table, and in forming the triangle the fifteen-ball should rest as nearly as possible upon the spot known as the deep-red spot in the Three-Ball Game.
=_ The players must each cast a single die for the privilege of first move, the higher winning. Ties throw again. _=4.=_ By mutual consent it may be agreed to let the higher throw play the points on his own and his adversary’s die for the first move; otherwise he must throw again with two dice. _=5.=_ Each player must throw the dice into the table on his right hand, and if either die jumps into the other table, or off the board, both dice must be taken up and thrown again. _=6.=_ To constitute a fair throw, each die must rest flat upon the board, and if either die is “cocked” against the other, or against the edge of the board or of a man, both dice must be taken up and thrown again. _=7.=_ If the caster interferes with the dice in any way, or touches them after they have left the box, and before they come absolutely to rest and the throw is called by the caster, the adversary may place face upward on the die or dice so interfered with, any number he chooses, and the caster must play it as if thrown.
” If he does not feel justified in doubling, he transfers the opportunity to his partner, by asking him: “Shall I play?” That is to say, “shall we play without doubling?” If his partner will not double, he answers: “Yes.” Either A or B having doubled, it becomes the privilege of the player who made the trump to double him again; making the value of the trick four times greater than that given in the table. If he does not do so, he says: “I pass”; and his partner then has the privilege. If either the dealer or his partner doubles, the adversary who first doubled may repeat it; or if he passes, his partner may double. This doubling may be continued until the value of each trick over the book is 100 points, when it must cease. _=IRREGULARITIES IN DOUBLING.=_ If the pone doubles before his partner has asked him “Shall I play?” the maker of the trump shall say whether or not the double shall stand. If he allows it to stand it may be redoubled. Should a player redouble out of turn, the one whom he redoubles shall have the right to say whether or not the redouble shall stand. Any consultation between partners as to doubling or redoubling will entitle their adversaries to insist on a new deal.
It is unnecessary to say that if a greek can mark the cards, the game becomes a walkover, even if he can recollect only the hand on his left. _=SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY.=_ Boston so closely resembles Solo Whist in such matters as bidding, and playing single-handed against three others, that the reader may be referred to that game for the outlines of the principles that should guide him in estimating the probable value of his hand, playing for tricks or for misères, and combining forces with his partners for the purpose of defeating the single player. For laws, see Whist Family Laws. BOSTON DE FONTAINEBLEAU. This game is sometimes, but incorrectly, called French Boston. The latter will be described in its proper place. _=CARDS.=_ Boston de Fontainebleau is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards. Two packs are generally used.
If there is more than one 16, that which is made with the assistance of the ♡6 wins, otherwise the one which is made with the fewest cards. If this is a tie the eldest hand wins. If no one has exactly 16, the farm stays with its original owner deal after deal, until exactly 16 is held by some player. Whether any one wins the farm or not, when the hands are exposed all those who have overdrawn must pay to the one who owned the farm at the beginning of that deal, as many counters as they have points more than 16. These payments do not go into the farm, but are clear profits. Those who have less than 16 pay nothing to the farmer; but the one who is nearest 16 receives a counter from each of the others. Ties are decided by the possession of the ♡ 6, or the fewest cards, or the eldest hand, as already described. If the farm remains in the same hands, the farmer deals again, and collects his profits until he loses his farm. When the farm is won, it is emptied, and resold as in the beginning. QUINZE.