At the beginning of the game they may be placed at the left hand, and transferred to the right as the points accrue. Another method is to stack the four circular counters one upon the other at the beginning of the game, and to count a point by placing one of them beside the others; two points by placing another upon the first; three points by placing a third beyond these two, and four points by placing them all in line. [Illustration: Nothing. One. Two. Three. Four.] In the seven point game, the score is continued by placing one counter above, and to the right or left of the other three, to indicate five points; and above and between them to indicate six. [Illustration: Five. Or this.
The umpire shall in all such cases be the sole judge in the matter of replacing such pin or pins. Each player shall roll two balls in each frame except when he shall make a strike, or when a second strike or spare is made in the tenth frame, when the player shall complete that frame by rolling a third ball. In such cases the frame shall be completed on the alley on which the first strike or spare is made. A strike is made when the player bowls down the ten pins with his first ball delivered in any frame and is credited and designated in the score by an X in the upper right hand corner of the frame, and the count in such frame is left open until the player shall have rolled his next two balls, when all pins made, counting ten for a strike, shall be credited therein. A spare is made when the player bowls down all the pins with his second ball in any frame, and is credited and designated with / in the upper right hand corner of the frame in which it is made. The count in such frame is left open until such player shall roll his next ball in the succeeding frame, when the number of pins rolled down thereby shall be added to the ten represented by his spare, and the total shall be credited therein. A break is made in all cases where the player does not secure either a strike or a spare in a frame, and in such cases only the number of pins knocked down are credited in the frame where the break is made. If at the end of the tenth frame the team scores shall be a tie, another frame shall be immediately bowled, and play is so continued until at the close of even frames one of the teams shall have a greater number of pins than their opponents, which shall conclude the game. COCKED HAT. The game is played with a head pin and the right and left corner pins as shown in the following diagram: [Illustration: O .
The misdealer must deal again. Should a player take up his hand, or look at any card in it, he is not entitled to any remedy. If he has more or less than the proper number of cards, his hand is foul, and must be abandoned, the player forfeiting any interest he may have in that deal, and any stake he may have put up on that hand. In all gambling houses, the invariable rule is to call a short hand foul; although there should be no objection to playing against a man with only four cards, which cannot be increased to five, even by the draw. _=STRADDLING.=_ During the deal, or at any time before he looks at any card in his hand, the player to the left of the age may _=straddle the blind=_ by putting up double the amount put up by the age. The only privilege this secures to the straddler is that of having the last _=say=_ as to whether or nor he will make good his ante and draw cards. Should he refuse to straddle, no other player can do so; but if he straddles, the player on his left can straddle him again by doubling the amount he puts up, which will be four times the amount of the blind. This will open the privilege to the next player on the left again, and so on until the limit of straddling is reached; but if one player refuses to straddle, no other following him can do so. Good players seldom or never straddle, as the only effect of it is to increase the amount of the ante.
FOSTER’S COMPLETE HOYLE AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF GAMES Revised and Enlarged to October, 1914 INCLUDING ALL INDOOR GAMES PLAYED TO-DAY. WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR GOOD PLAY, ILLUSTRATIVE HANDS AND ALL OFFICIAL LAWS TO DATE BY R.F. FOSTER _Author of “Royal Auction Bridge with Nullos,” “Cooncan,” and many other books on card games_ ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS AND ENGRAVINGS NEW YORK FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY PUBLISHERS Copyright, 1914, by FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY Copyright, 1909, by FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY Copyright, 1897, by FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY _All Rights Reserved_ FASC _October, 1914_ PUBLISHERS’ NOTE. _=This book is entirely original.=_ It is the work of a single author, who has made the subject of games a life-long study, who keeps in touch with all new games, and with changes in old games.
Here is another simple little game. Take the black pieces this time, but make the white men move first, of course. P-K4 Kt-KB3 KtxP 1 ---- 2 ------ 3 ------ P-K4 Kt-KB3 Kt-QB3 You don’t take the King’s Pawn; it is much more important to develop your pieces rapidly. KtxKt P-Q3 B-Kt5 4 ----- 5 ----- 6 ----- QPxKt B-QB4 KtxP White’s sixth move is bad, and you immediately take advantage of it. If he takes your Knight with his Pawn, you will take his K B P with your Bishop, and say “Check.” If he takes the Bishop you win his Queen. If he moves his King you check again with your other Bishop, which will force him to take your black Bishop, and lose his Queen. BxQ K-K2 7 ------ 8 ---------- BxP ch K-Kt5 mate If the beginner will examine the position, he will find that there is no way of escape for the King, and Black wins. Openings are usually divided into five principal classes: Those in which the first piece developed is the _=King’s Knight=_; those in which the _=King’s Bishop=_ is the first piece brought into play; those in which a _=Gambit=_ is offered on the second move, usually a sacrificed Pawn; those which are called _=Close=_ openings, securing a good defensive game for the black pieces; and those which are _=Irregular=_. In the following outline of fifty of the openings, only the first four moves are given, and usually only one variation is selected, the object being more to give the student an idea of the development than to exhaust the subject.
=_ The first thing to guard against is a long run of winning leads from the elder hand, which might make the odd trick, or even capot. As there are no trumps it is very important for the dealer to keep guarded Kings and twice-guarded Queens. The principal thing for the dealer to remember is that if he cannot stop a long suit in the elder hand, he will have to provide in advance for a certain number of discards, and these must be so planned that guards will be preserved in the other suits. He should also get his hand into such condition that when he does get into the lead, he will not have to lead away from tenaces or guarded Kings. Careful attention to his adversary’s declarations, and a comparison of his own hand with his discards will usually guide the dealer to a correct conclusion as to what to keep and what to throw away in playing to tricks. Mathematicians have exhausted their resources on Piquet, but their conclusions are of little use to the average player. The subject of discards has been very fully illustrated by examples from actual play, especially in the _Westminster Papers_, but no one has yet given us any simple rules like the jeux de règle at Écarté. PIQUET NORMAND, FOR THREE PLAYERS. In this form of the game the players cut for seats and deal. The cards are dealt by twos and threes until each has ten, two cards remaining for the talon.
It being to the advantage of the player with a good suit to exhaust the trumps, it must be desirable to his adversaries to keep theirs, if possible, for the purpose of ruffing this good suit. Trumps are also useful as cards of re-entry, when a player has an established suit, but has not the lead; their most important use, however, is in defending or stopping established suits. _=Rules for Leading Trumps.=_ With five or more trumps, the beginner should always begin by leading them, regardless of the rest of his hand. With three or less he should never lead them, unless he has very strong cards in _=all=_ the plain suits. With four trumps exactly, he should lead them if he has an established suit and a card of re-entry in another suit. A card of re-entry in plain suits is one which is pretty sure to win a trick, such as an Ace, or a guarded King. The following are examples of hands from which trumps should be led originally by a beginner;-- Hearts are trumps in every case. ♡ J 8 6 4 2; ♣ K 3 2; ♢ 10 9 2; ♠ 7 5. ♡ Q 10 2; ♣ A K 5; ♢ K Q 10 9; ♠ A Q 3.
--Cork (Miss Keane). Halliwell (_Nursery Rhymes_, p. 228) describes the game in practically the same manner, but adds that when the Fox is coming out he says-- The Fox gives warning It s a cold and frosty morning, after which he is at liberty to hop out and use his handkerchief. _(b)_ This game is alluded to in _Soliman and Perseda_, 1599; _Florio_, p. 480; _Herrick_, i. 176. See Halliwell s _Dictionary_. Professor Mayor communicated to the _Gentleman s Magazine_ of 1848 (ii.), p. 147, the following early allusions to the game from old dictionaries:-- Gouldman, London, MDCLXIV.
The objection to this practice was that many hands were worth much more than 2 points, and in some cases the spade make would have gone game at the score. This led to the practice of playing “royal spades,” which were played at 10 and then at 9 a trick, sometimes with a penalty of 20 if the declarer failed to make the odd. Shortly after this, later in 1910, there developed a decided rebellion against the dealer’s monopoly of the make, and in order to allow any player at the table who held good cards to get the benefit of them, whether he was the dealer or not, bidding for the privilege of making the trump came into vogue. This was the starting point of auction, its chief difference from the older game being that only the side that made the highest bid for the declaration could score toward game. The full number of tricks bid had to be made, and if they were not made, the adversaries scored in the honour column for penalties, the penalty being always the same, regardless of the trump suit. The great disparity in the values of the suits as then played practically confined the bidding to the hearts and royal spades. This soon brought about another change, which was to raise the values of all the suits except spades and to cut down the no-trumper. This was done in 1912, and made it possible for any suit to go game on the hand. All the well known writers on whist and bridge came out with text-books on auction, and the newspapers took up the subject in weekly articles. Although to many the game now seemed perfect, there were those that felt the helplessness of weak hands to offer any defence in the bidding against a run of no-trumpers or hearts and royals.
But he never got a chance to try it. An ashtray, one of those things with a shot-loaded cloth bag under it, flew off a desk, smacked him in the back of the head, and dropped to the floor with a thump. It wasn t a hard blow, but an upsetting one. Fowler Smythe grinned at him from where he was sitting in one of the leather divans. Sit down and shut up, Sime, he suggested coolly. Simonetti sagged with defeat. Look, Rose, he gasped. I want out. Bad enough that our losses can t be stopped by this creep Smythe. Now you drag in another TK.
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By combining his knowledge of them with his own cards, he may often be able to direct his play to advantage. Beyond this there is little skill in the game. A variation is sometimes made by the dealer announcing a trump suit after he has examined his hand, instead of turning up the last card. His adversary then has the right either to play his hand, or to exchange it for the one on his right; but the dealer must play the hand dealt to him. THIRTEEN AND THE ODD. This is Humbug Whist without the discard. The dealer gives thirteen cards to his adversary and to himself, one at a time, and turns up the next for the trump. The trump card belongs to neither player. The winner of the odd trick scores a point. Five points is game.
=_ In a Frage or a Tourné, some judgment is required in discarding for the Skat. It is often necessary to lay aside the Ace and Ten of trumps if there is any danger that the adversaries may catch them. Unguarded Tens should always be laid out, and it is a good general principle to get rid of one suit entirely, so that you can trump it. It is a common practice to put in the Skat the Ace and Ten of a suit of which you hold also the King. When you lead the King, if Mittelhand has none of the suit he is sure to fatten the trick for his partner, thinking he must have Ace or Ten. With the Ten, King, and small cards of a plain suit, lay the Ten and King in the Skat. _=The Adversaries=_ should combine against the single player by getting him between them if possible. If you sit on the left of the player, lead your short suits up to him; but if you sit on his right, lead your longest suit through him. Try to force out his trumps on your plain-suit cards if you can, and avoid giving him discards of his weak suits. With a long trump suit, it is often advantageous to lead it through the player, but seldom right to lead it up to him.